Marlin: auto leveling issue?

[d2crafty]

I already set up the autoleveling and had successful prints.. however now after it levels and starts printing.. one side of my brim is showing up as "too squished down" and the other side as though it is "normal" -- seems as though the sensor is not working as intended? I am doing a 9 pt probe. is there something I can do other than adjusting the bed screws to accommodate the leveling? this is for a prusa i3 clone thank you

[Tannoo]

Dual Z steppers? Possible one got out of sync at some point causing the X carriage to be out of kilter?
The Z axis rods should be lubed...if not, they will bind and cause this issue. To help with this, I have changed these 5mm nuts to brass nuts.

Is it possible that one or more of the bed adjustments worked loose(r)?

You are not "autoleveling" before every print, are you?
If so, you are not taking advantage of the EEPROM features to store the matrix for multiple uses.

[benlye]

Check that your Z-probe X and Y offsets are correct - you need to set the offset from the center of the nozzle to the center of the probe (what kind of probe, out of interest?) - having this out by 1-2mm can cause the behaviour you are seeing (I had the same problem).

You might find the troubleshooting steps here helpful (it's written for the A8, which is another i3 clone):
https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling#troubleshooting

[Bob-the-Kuhn]

If you continue to have problems with the two Z steppers getting out of synch then consider going to Z_DUAL_ENDSTOPS.

If you're using Bilinear leveling then take a look at this.
Bilinear Auto Bed Leveling Details 0.4.zip

[sarf2k4]

I am also wondering about the configuration since I am using original bltouch classic and here are my configs for it

these are the offset especially x and y, I got them from measuring the model file in the 3d modeling software

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 30  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 11 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.95   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]

while this one is the probe boundary

// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION ((X_MIN_POS + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER))
    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 195
    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 11
    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 192

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS -10
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 210
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MAX_POS 180

on left side, it is squished down

[d2crafty]

sorry I havn't been on here a bit.. #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -15 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.70 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes

define XY_PROBE_SPEED 3000

// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)

define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z

// Speed for the "accurate" probe of each point

define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)

// Use double touch for probing

define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH

--

I caliper checked my x axis for height discrepancies and now I'm manually rechecking my bed for it being set off.

[d2crafty]

using http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3d-printer-Auto-Leveling-Sensor-limit-switch-for-Prusa-I3-3D-printer-/302251659470?hash=item465f9a50ce:g:z18AAOSw4A5Yx2bf --- as a bed leveling sensor

[d2crafty]

well.. i spent 6 hours trying to get this damn printer to print correctly again. I still have to "manually" adjust the bed to the print head on one of the points for the print to stick to the bed correctly. I almost feel like I'm better off going back to the manual end stops :( - what is weird is, everytime I adjust it to the "correct" point, and start the print over, it seems the problem would reoccur

[Roxy-3D]

well.. i spent 6 hours trying to get this damn printer to print correctly again. I still have to "manually" adjust the bed to the print head on one of the points for the print to stick to the bed correctly. I almost feel like I'm better off going back to the manual end stops :(

Turn on the UBL Bed Leveling... You will get good adhesion across 100% of your bed every time. If you do choose to do that... I'll help you get it set up. Do these things and report back...

• MAKE SURE your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is set very accurately in Configuration.h
• Turn on BABYSTEPPING and DOUBLE_CLICK in Configuration_adv.h
• Turn on UBL and tell it to do a 10 x 10 Mesh (Flash the firmware)
• Do a M502, M500, M501
• Do a G28
• Do a G29 P 1
• Do a G29 S 1
• Do a G29 O and post the topology map here saying you are ready to continue. (at this point, you are at the fun part.)

[d2crafty]

i'll get back tonight. I've been up from 11pm to now 645am.. thanks for the help!

[sarf2k4]

@Roxy-3D , i need a bit of help here as well for my configuration above. Was it okay especially for the probe area bounding?

[Roxy-3D]

Was it okay especially for the probe area bounding?

I don't understand the question. But if you have a bizarre setup, we can address it with the Configuration_adv.h settings. (bizarre like your X-Min is -50 and X-Max is 200). UBL knows about the probe offset and that is the reason I asked for the topology map as the last step up above. Depending on what we see... We may want to do address the un-probed areas differently.

Go ahead and see far you can get with the list up above...

[sarf2k4]

well, according to bob, give a bit of edge margin so the probed point value are much better

[Roxy-3D]

well, according to bob, give a bit of edge margin so the probed point value are much better

There is truth in that.... But really, it is up to you. Do you want every last mili-meter of printable bed space? Because if you do, it will be harder (meaning an extra iteration of G26 & G29 P4) to clean up the inaccurate numbers along the edge. If you want to get setup with minimal problems... Yeah... define a 5mm or 10mm inset in your configuration.h file. And that issue will be automatically addressed.

[sarf2k4]

okay, i will try with 5-10mm inset, that would mean at about the following right?

// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25
    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 190
    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 185

the above setting are after the margin inset

[Roxy-3D]

Those numbers are not used in UBL. Please ignore them. Just set UBL_MESH_INSET 10 and we will know as soon as we do a G26 whether you want to shift numbers before you fine tune your mesh.

If we have to throw out the first set of numbers because the mesh is too small on your bed or not positioned how you want it... It isn't a tragic loss. You just change the numbers and get a cup of coffee while it recovers back to where you decide to pull the rip cord.

[sarf2k4]

I'm unable to find the specified variable, the closest is this #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10 on line 817

[Roxy-3D]

You should be using the current RCBugFix, right??? This is the section to fill in your UBL numbers:

#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)

  //===========================================================================
  //========================= Unified Bed Leveling ============================
  //===========================================================================

  #define UBL_MESH_INSET 45         // Mesh inset margin on print area
  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 10      // Don't use more than 15 points per axis, implementation limited.
  #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_X 39       // These set the probe locations for when UBL does a 3-Point leveling
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 325      // of the mesh.
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_X 39
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_X 325
  #define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 200
  #define UBL_G26_MESH_EDITING      // Enable G26 mesh editing

Those are my numbers for my gMax 1.5+ printer. It is big.... You probably want to set UBL_MESH_INSET to 10 and change the 3-point probe numbers so they fit on your bed.

[sarf2k4]

aahhhh.... i see, I am using the initial rc8 release since rcbugfix kind of always updated and i might lose track of which is which to be honest. i will give it a try.

so if I used the previous setting that i currently use, not the one with margin applied, the ubl inset will apply the margin automatically right?

[Roxy-3D]

Yes. BUT please pull up the configuration.h files in a visual diff program and move your settings to the new file. Do not just try to drop your old file in place. That will not work. And probably, you should do that for both Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h.

[sarf2k4]

is it possible if i add #include <customconfig.h> at the top of the original configuration.h file in hoping to override the original file? sorry a bit of out of topic

[Roxy-3D]

I don't know... It is safest if you don't add any variables. It would be best to just get your settings into Configuration.h

[sarf2k4]

I'm porting the previous config.h to the rcbugfix's config and reached to the bed leveling section. which do i have to pick?

[Roxy-3D]

//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING

[sarf2k4]

okay. I will try with the bilinear first then moving to ubl if problem still persist

[d2crafty]

tried configuring the new marlin. seems my printer doesn't like the new ver. no UBL leveling in my ver. :/
I'm using 1.1.0. RC8

[Bob-the-Kuhn]

It's only in RCBugFix.

You'll have to manually transfer your machine specific items over to the new config files.

[jasoncross]

I have a very similar issue. Migrated my config and am now on the latest RCBugFix. Would like to try using UBL, but haven't figured it out yet - any guide out there for setup and testing?

[Roxy-3D]

Would like to try using UBL, but haven't figured it out yet - any guide out there for setup and testing?

We need a guide written for it. But do these steps and report back... I'll help you.

• MAKE SURE your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is set very accurately in Configuration.h
• Turn on BABYSTEPPING and DOUBLE_CLICK in Configuration_adv.h
• Turn on UBL and tell it to do a 10 x 10 Mesh (Flash the firmware)
• Do a M502, M500, M501
• Do a G28
• Do a G29 P 1
• Do a G29 S 1
• Do a G29 O and post the topology map here saying you are ready to continue. (at this point, you are at the fun part.)

[jasoncross]

Ok! Will give it a go in the morning and report back!

[fiveangle]

Turn on BABYSTEPPING

So UBL requires LCD ?

[Roxy-3D]

So UBL requires LCD ?

Right now... Yes. But once we get Delta's up and running that constraint can be relaxed.

[jasoncross]

Do you recommend turning on BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET?

Map:

Recv: Bed Topography Report:
Recv:
Recv: (0,9) (9,9)
Recv: (20,20) (280,280)
Recv: 0.625 0.715 0.555 0.408 0.750 0.963 0.912 1.112 1.100 .
Recv:
Recv: 0.345 0.283 0.393 0.628 0.787 0.765 0.807 1.082 1.098 .
Recv:
Recv: 0.130 0.010 0.423 0.413 0.420 0.918 0.795 0.767 0.985 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.048 0.120 0.082 0.462 0.582 0.355 0.435 0.680 0.925 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.450 -0.245 -0.077 0.160 0.125 0.357 0.505 0.538 0.818 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.620 -0.460 -0.102 -0.187 0.158 [ 0.010] 0.320 0.490 0.548 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.780 -0.442 -0.072 -0.293 -0.067 -0.050 0.120 0.340 0.477 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.970 -0.638 -0.650 -0.330 -0.232 -0.092 0.187 0.192 0.452 .
Recv:
Recv: -0.965 -0.950 -0.795 -0.405 -0.288 -0.170 0.025 0.255 0.305 .
Recv:
Recv: . . . . . . . . . .
Recv: (20,20) (280,20)
Recv: (0,0) (9,0)

[Roxy-3D]

@jasoncross I had to pull your Topology Map into a text editor so I could get the columns to line up. Your probe has a negative X & Y OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER. Which means it can't probe all the way to the right side or the front (if your origin is left front) of the bed.

We need to fill in the unprobed areas with 'reasonable' numbers. Please do the following:

• Reset the printer
• G28
• G29 L 1 (this loads your mesh)
• G1 X25 Y30
• G29 P3 C -.90 R3 O (You will see the lower left 3 unprobed numbers filled in)
• G29 P3 C -.3 R3 O (and the next three numbers)
• G29 P3 C 0.0 R1 O
• G29 P3 C 0.3 R4 O
• G1 X250 Y30
• G29 P3 C .5 R3
• G29 P3 C .85 R2
• G29 P3 C 1.0 R O (No need to specify a number... We are filling the rest with 1.0)
• G29 A
• G29 S1
• reset the printer (not really needed... but lets start clean)
• G28
• G26 P C O3.0 (Put hair spray (or prep) the entire bed. We are going to see where the mesh needs to be adjusted with G29 P4 R)

I have a 'Smart Fill' routine written and debugged... But it will be a few days until I get it uploaded. With that... All of those G29 P3 commands would have been automated.

[jasoncross]

I have those commands done. What's next? Nothing happened when I ran the G26 P C O3.0

[Roxy-3D]

I have those commands done. What's next? Nothing happened when I ran the G26 P C O3.0

That doesn't sound right... Do you have #define UBL_G26_MESH_EDITING enabled? If not, you need to enable it and re-flash the firmware. Then continue on...

[jasoncross]

That doesn't sound right... Do you have #define UBL_G26_MESH_EDITING enabled? If not, you need to enable it and re-flash the firmware. Then continue on...

That was commented out. I uncommented, reflashed, then ran G28 followed by G26 P C O3.0

A pattern printed. Most (but not all) of the grid looked to be extruded from further away from the heat bed than I would expect. Should I adjust my offset with M851 and run again? Any way to test a smaller portion of the grid to see if that helps without waiting for the full 10x10?

[Roxy-3D]

A pattern printed. Most (but not all) of the grid looked to be extruded from further away from the heat bed than I would expect. Should I adjust my offset with M851 and run again? Any way to test a smaller portion of the grid to see if that helps without waiting for the full 10x10?

Step one was:

• MAKE SURE your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is set very accurately in Configuration.h

In theory, it doesn't matter because the mesh can adjust for what ever error is present. But things do go much better if this is accurately set. And it helps to set the Z-Homing to happen in the center of the bed. If you want... It might be good to make sure the Z Probe offset is very accurately set. (along with homing in the center of the bed)

But... The way the system works is you can now move the nozzle over an area of the bed that is not 'perfect' and issue a G29 P4 R. You can dial up or down each mesh point. As a rule of thumb... If the line is too squished down and too thin... Bring the mesh point up. Don't go crazy... but depending on what you see, bring it up .1 or .2 mm. If the line is just barely adhering to the bed, bring the mesh point down .1mm. If the line is not adhearing at all, bring it down .25mm.

And then run another G26 command. Things will be better. You will see improvement. But there still will be flaws. So, you move the nozzle to each bad area, and do another G29 P4 R.

After a few iterations... You will have 100% adhesion across 100% of your bed 100% of the time.

But seriously... It really does help to have your Z-Probe-Offset dialed in very accurately.

One you get your mesh accurately dialed in... It should be very stable for many months. If you move your printer to a friends house or you change the linear bearings on your bed... You will have to redial it in. But short of that... It just works. It powers up and it is correct. So it is worth spending an hour to get it accurately defined.

[jasoncross]

Here is how I tested my offset:

G28
Put a piece of paper under the nozzle on the bed
Set Z to 0
Paper had that tiny bit of pull between build surface and nozzle that one likes

Not sure how to get more exact than that. Plus it's the same offset I've been using with bilinear with good results at least in the middle of my bed.

Will tweak the grid tomorrow and report back.

[Roxy-3D]

Yeah... It is always difficult to get that number right. But here is another way to do it. You have a G26 pattern printed on your bed. Is it pretty much too high? Or is it pretty much too low? Is half of it perfect? And half of it not adhering at all?

The Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER should be ---PERFECT--- in the area where the nozzle is when the Z-Axis is homed. (And homing in the center of the bed helps for a number of reasons!!!!). It is worth taking a quick detour and getting that number set right such that the mesh has very small correction numbers around the place where the nozzle homes the Z-Axis.

But that is the whole purpose of the G26 Mesh Validation Pattern. It lets you see what is happening with regard to your nozzle and how it prints on the bed. Dial in your Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER number based on where the nozzle is when your home the Z-Axis. (Do this with no correction. You want to see how things look without any correction. Either do a G29 D or do a G29 P0) Make sure that part of the G26 pattern looks nice with no correction. Adjust the Z-Probe Offset up or down so that looks perfect. (And you don't even have to let the whole pattern finish. You can stop it as soon as you know which way (and how much) to move the offset.

And... Once that is set... It probably makes sense to grab a cup of coffee and just start over with a fresh G28 / G29 P1.

PS. Please don't feel like you are in over your head or that this is hopeless. The fact you got much of the G26 to print in a reasonable fashion means you are almost certainly guaranteed of getting across the finish line. Worst case... Because you have no experience dialing up or down the mesh points... It will take 3 iterations of printing a G26 pattern, and then editing the bad spots. The process converges very quickly. And pretty soon, you won't even have to look at the LCD panel as you dial a mesh point up or down. You will just be looking at where the nozzle is and making a decision of "should I raise that spot just a little bit, or maybe a lot?" It gets better very quickly!

[jasoncross]

What's the best way to stop the G26 pattern? Anything short of the kill switch?

I used m851 to move the z offset .1 and re-ran G26. The center looks correct, the right has the nozzle too close, as does the top center, and the bottom left is too far.

Can you clarify how I go about making corrections at each point?

Don't worry, it doesnt feel hopeless. I'm excited to get it all figured out. i do have a question though - once the mesh is established, does the whole process need to be retuned from scratch every time the bed gets slightly off level left-to right or my glass shifts slightly?

[Roxy-3D]

What's the best way to stop the G26 pattern? Anything short of the kill switch?

Press and hold the Encoder Wheel. There is some latency. It is only checked once during each circle (and connecting line) cycle. It might take 2 or 3 seconds to be noticed. Just keep the encoder wheel pressed... and it will stop 'eventually'.

I used m851 to move the z offset .1 and re-ran G26. The center looks correct, the right has the nozzle too close, as does the top center, and the bottom left is too far.

Ok! good on the 'center' part! Probably, you should start clean with a new G29 P1. But if you choose not to... You can just edit each and every mesh point. But if you adjust the Z probe offset... You really should start clean with a fresh G29 P1.

Can you clarify how I go about making corrections at each point?

After you do a G26 command, the mesh validation pattern will be on the bed. Different areas may be less than 'perfect'. Move the nozzle to the center of the area that is flawed. Do a G29 P4 R command. The nozzle will go to the closest mesh point that has not been edited yet. You can turn the encoder wheel to adjust what should happen at that mesh point. If you have bad adheasion at the mesh point, bring the nozzle down a little bit. If the filament is squished too thin at the mesh point, bring it up 'the right' amount.

When you done editing that area... Press and Hold the encoder wheel. This is typically done over a mesh point you don't want to edit.

Don't worry, it doesnt feel hopeless. I'm excited to get it all figured out. i do have a question though - once the mesh is established, does the whole process need to be retuned from scratch every time the bed gets slightly off level left-to right or my glass shifts slightly?

No... If an area or edge starts not being perfect... You can just edit that one area and everything is good for a while. Typically... A perfectly tuned mesh lasts at least a month (and I print a lot). But as the linear bearings wear and different things happen... Your mesh does need to be 'refreshed'. But it usually is small areas that are less than perfect and it takes longer to do the G26 command than to actually do the editing. What can really screw things up is if you drive the nozzle into the bed and one Z stepper motor keeps going down but the other side freezes. Doing something like that causes you to lose everything and may have to start over.

[d2crafty]

ok, heres the issue.
Marlin_REVISED_NEW.zip
marlin_OLD.zip

The OLD marlin works. The NEW marlin refuses to work. I could swear I'm putting all the right things in, maybe I missed something. Can somebody review it and tell me please? thank you.

[Roxy-3D]

@d2crafty A visual diff program is very useful. Try bringing up Notepad++ and turning on the visual comparison plug in. Then bring in both files and make sure your settings are all crossed over. This really is something you need to learn how to do.

[d2crafty]

I know there are differences, however I don't know what is needed and unneeded. E.g. in the new version a LED color system is enabled which I disabled. Maybe something I have needs to be enabled that was added to the new system I don't know of that is crashing the system?

[Roxy-3D]

E.g. in the new version a(n) LED color system is enabled which I disabled.

It is not enabled by default, right? No way can that be the way it is when this gets promoted to Golden.

[d2crafty]

Well, I decided to uninstall repetier and reinstall to try for the prints since I have been trying to level this bed over and over with no avail. Funny, first print that comes out is 95% perfect. The offset is about .02 too close to the bed. But everything seems to be coming put straight. All this and maybe it was just a software issue on repetier alone?

[Roxy-3D]

first print that comes out is 95% perfect. T

The first print with UBL turned on (and the mesh not even edited....)? Or do you mean with no bed leveling turned on... You can now get a 95% perfect print?

[d2crafty]

ok, I fixed it, its coming out 99.9% there. In my book, its "perfect" enough compared to what I was getting 17 hours ago. The bed leveling is turned on, I have no clue why nothing was registering. But whatever. I'm still curious about the UBL, but right now, I just need to get some prints out. Roxy-3D commented 12 minutes ago "You can now get a 95% perfect print?" -- give me crap

[Roxy-3D]

Yeah... This stuff is more complicated than it needs to be!

[d2crafty]

well, I spent alittle over a week on this, 7-8hours a day, not including my weekends which went even longer. like today is technically my Sunday. To say it was something simple as, uninstall and reinstall sort of pisses me off

[Roxy-3D]

To say it was something simple as, uninstall and reinstall sort of pisses me off

This isn't quite what you are talking about... But Slic3r and PronterFace and others use Java and Python. And I'm not 100% those subsystems have the user's best interest in mind. There is all kinds of flakiness and just installing or uninstalling one of those Java apps affects all of the other Java apps you have installed.

This stuff all needs to work better with other app's in the 3D-Printer ecosystem.

In the Python case... You have to follow a magic check off sheet to get everything installed so it works on a Window's machine. Come on... That is BS.

[d2crafty]

just curious, I get the msg OpenGL: Out of Memory. I have 3gb ddr5 memory on a 16GB of ram. I don't see how this is possible?

[jasoncross]

You can turn the encoder wheel to adjust what should happen at that mesh point. If you have bad adheasion at the mesh point, bring the nozzle down a little bit. If the filament is squished too thin at the mesh point, bring it up 'the right' amount.

If the nozzle is too close to the bed at that point in the grid, do I raise or lower the number?

[Roxy-3D]

The mesh numbers say what to do to the nozzle to make it track the bed. So if the nozzle is too close to the bed... What ever the number is currently, make it bigger. Make it more positive. Make it less negative.

If the nozzle is too far from the bed... bring the mesh point number down. make the mesh point number smaller. make it more negative.

If you have any adhesion at all... don't move the number by more than .15 mm .15mm will cause a visible difference in how the lines at that point appear. You want the mesh lines to be flat on the top (because they are being squished into the bed) and a little wider than the nozzle's extrusion hole.

[jasoncross]

Once I make all of the adjustments, do I do a G29 S1 to save to EEPROM? And then another G26?

[Roxy-3D]

Yes to both questions... You should see improvement in the mesh validation pattern. But some areas will still be wrong. They will be 'less wrong'. The process converges very quickly.

You keep doing the

• G26 C P O 3.0
• G29 P4 R (with the nozzle placed over bad areas)
• G29 S1

until your mesh is perfect. 3 or 4 iterations will have it perfect.

[jasoncross]

Does a G29 P 1 override the fine tuning?

And is there any way to have UBL and Bilinear auto-level co-exist without firmware reflashing and having to rework the system? Just thinking about times where my mesh might be out of whack and I just need a quick center-of-the-bed print.

[Roxy-3D]

Yes, G29 P1 invalidates the mesh and start the auto probing.

All of the bed leveling systems are mutually exclusive. But if your mesh is bad, You can do a G29 P0 to set the entire mesh to 0.000 And you can do a 3-Point or grid based leveling of your bed. That is G29 T or G29 J3 You won't have the corrections for a non-flat surface. But you will have the system correcting for any tilt in the bed.

(I'm working on the G29 J3 right now... It is almost done.)

[jasoncross]

Ok, that's good to know.

I assume after a G29 P1 I'd also need to refill in where the probe couldn't reach. Any progress on your SmartFill update? How will that be invoked (or will it be automatic)?

Ok, so let's say I get my mesh all fine tuned. After each printer reset do I run a G29 L 1 to reload it, or will it reload automatically out of EEPROM? And when I go to print, do I just do a G28 (right now with the old systems I have gcode that runs G28 then G29)? What happens if a G29 command alone gets sent?

Oh yeah, and does G29 P0 invalidate the mesh when it turns off? Does a G29 L 1 re-enable UBL?

[jasoncross]

Oh wait, I see, G29 P0 sets to mesh to 0, it doesn't just disable.

Does a G29 T or G29 J3 with the mesh enabled compensate for overall tilt along the mesh? So if for example I have a good mesh on my build surface but the overall tilt gets off, could one of those correct for it?

[Roxy-3D]

If you are willing to do a small amount of editing... Here is the Smart Fill code:

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6241#issuecomment-296903599

If you save your mesh with the system active... The system will be active when you power up the printer.
If that is how you choose to operate (and I do!!!), you never need to give your printer a G29 command.

If you save your mesh with the system inactive, the last mesh you had will still load. But the system will be inactive until you give it a G29 A command.

The G29 T and G29 J3 are there to support bed tilt. If you have a perfect mesh defined, but you some times get a small piece of plastic underneath the glass that cause tilt... This will correct for that you will still be getting the benefit of the mesh being applied for the non-flat surface.

[jasoncross]

Great - that is exactly what I was hoping. So I can set a mesh based on my glass and then use the others to compensate for when the glass tilt gets slightly off. Awesome. Does a G29 T or G29 J3 then require saving as G29 S 1?

So to be clear - if I have the mesh active and reset, my saved mesh is still active without needing to explicitly load it?

I have some sliced gcode with g29 already in it (I previously leveled before every print). Will invoking it be ignored, or will it reset my mesh?

[jasoncross]

Does a saved mesh survive a firmware upgrade or an m502?

[Roxy-3D]

Does a G29 T or G29 J3 then require saving as G29 S 1?

You can do that. But it is my belief the G29 T and G29 J3 are best done right after the G28 to correct for any imperfections in how the glass is sitting on your bed. I plan on using it before each print and then just discarding the results after the print.

So to be clear - if I have the mesh active and reset, my saved mesh is still active without needing to explicitly load it?

Yes. But if you don't want the mesh active at power up... You would do a G29 D and then save the mesh. The mesh will still get loaded at power up. But it won't be active in that case.

I have some sliced gcode with g29 already in it (I previously leveled before every print). Will invoking it be ignored, or will it reset my mesh?

You may want to change the Startup Gcode section of your slicer to not have any G29 commands.
And if you want to keep using your older gcode files, you can just pull them into a text editor and delete the line with the existing G29 on it.

Does a saved mesh survive a firmware upgrade or an m502?

You can do a G29 S-1 to print out the entire mesh in a form that can be reloaded. Then upgrade your firmware. And load your saved file from the G29 S-1 into PronterFace. Then Print it. Your old mesh will now be loaded. You can do a G29 O to verify it is loaded. Then do a G29 S 1 and your old mesh will be resaved across a firmware update.

In general, your mesh should survive across firmware upgrades. But things are moving around a little bit right now. And saving your mesh by doing a G29 S-1 and saving the output as a my_mesh.gcode file will insure you can easily get it back if your mesh pattern does not survive across a firmware update.

[Roxy-3D]

Smart Fill and Mesh tilting now in RCBugFix if anybody feels like upgrading your firmware!

[Tannoo]

Awwwwe yeeaaah.

[jasoncross]

Smart Fill and Mesh tilting now in RCBugFix if anybody feels like upgrading your firmware!

I will load it up and give it a go. What is the command to have SmartFill run and fill in non-probed areas?

[jasoncross]

What is the command to have SmartFill run and fill in non-probed areas?

Found it. G29 P3 O

@Roxy-3D Have you considered implementing something like babystepping to fine-tune the mesh as a G26 is running? Having the ability to tune the Z distance on a given point as it's printing the pattern by turning the knob would make the whole process of fine-tuning easier. Otherwise it feels like a bit of a shot in the dark each time I refresh as to whether I have adjusted the offset enough or too much.

[Roxy-3D]

That is a good idea... But that is very complicated to do... Let me think about it. AND FOR SURE: That can't happen in time for the Golden Master release this weekend!

[jasoncross]

Aw sure it can! ;)

[jasoncross]

@Roxy-3D Out of curiosity what are you using as a probe for leveling?

[Roxy-3D]

On my gMax 1.5+ I have a BL-Touch probe. On my FolgerTech i3-2020 I have a servo with a probe leg that kicks down and at the end of it is a micro-switch with a roller on the lever arm.

[jasoncross]

So what does a plain G29 do with UBL enabled? Is there a page with all of the G29 commands listed out?

[Roxy-3D]

It pretty much does nothing... If you look at the front end of the ubl_G29.cpp file... All of the commands are documented.

[jasoncross]

Good, so if I print an older file with G28, G29 it won't break anything?

I was thinking about your recommendation of doing a grid or 3-put level of the mesh more often. What if a base G29 did that?

[Roxy-3D]

Well... To be honest... I think you will find you don't need to do that. The UBL System was designed to have the best features from each of the previous bed leveling systems. And to allow them to be combined and used together .

As it turns out... The mesh leveling with a tuned 10x10 grid is exceptionally good... You don't need anything else. And it is for that reason it has taken so long to get the Grid leveling added to the system. Mostly, I added it just for completeness. It isn't something people are going to use very often.

[d2crafty]

just curious. once I have the perfect brim from 1 g29, i should never g29 it again right?

[Roxy-3D]

Never is the wrong way to look at. If something happens... Like after a month of printing you get some wear on your linear bearings... You may need to adjust part of your mesh. But you don't need a G29 in your start up GCode for each print any more.

[jasoncross]

So frustrated. After many cycles of repeating I had a g26 grid that looked good. Was replacing my tape to print something and my glass lifted up slightly. pushed it back down and did a G29 J3 and then printed. In a relatively small area, parts of layer 1 were slightly high but close to good and others actually pushed into the tape. Way off again.

Also, when babystepping, should you see the effect immediately? I adjusted the offset from -1.4 to nearly -.4 while printing the first layer and saw no difference which seems...impossible.

[Roxy-3D]

In a relatively small area, parts of layer 1 were slightly high but close to good and others actually pushed into the tape. Way off again.

You should be able to load your mesh, do a G29 J4 and tilt your mesh. Probably it makes sense to not destroy the original mesh until you know the new mesh is better. But that should get things much better. (All of the updates and corrections to make this feature 'correct' were only in place a few days ago.)

If you want to see exactly what the G29 J4 does to your mesh.... Load the old mesh, do a G29 J4 and then do a G29 K 1 O (assuming you have your original mesh saved in slot 1) It will subtract Slot 1's values off of the current mesh in RAM. You can see how much of a tilt got added to your print surface.

Also, when babystepping, should you see the effect immediately? I adjusted the offset from -1.4 to nearly -.4 while printing the first layer and saw no difference which seems...impossible.

You don't see the impact immediately. But you will see the difference very quickly. The steps are fed into the position over time. With the printer not busy... You can crank the encoder wheel and see how fast the new position gets updated.

[jasoncross]

You don't see the impact immediately. But you will see the difference very quickly. The steps are fed into the position over time. With the printer not busy... You can crank the encoder wheel and see how fast the new position gets updated.

I wonder if something is not working there? I crank the wheel and see no change, busy or not. This is what I have in my advanced config:

define BABYSTEPPING

if ENABLED(BABYSTEPPING)

#define BABYSTEP_XY // Also enable X/Y Babystepping. Not supported on DELTA!
#define BABYSTEP_INVERT_Z false // Change if Z babysteps should go the other way
#define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR 1 // Babysteps are very small. Increase for faster motion.
#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET // Enable to combine M851 and Babystepping
#define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING // Double-click on the Status Screen for Z Babystepping.
#define DOUBLECLICK_MAX_INTERVAL 1250 // Maximum interval between clicks, in milliseconds.
// Note: Extra time may be added to mitigate controller latency.

endif

[jasoncross]

Here is what the G29 K 1 0 output:

0.875 0.720 0.855 0.796 0.666 0.676 0.606 0.691 0.642 0.642
0.669 0.584 0.659 0.604 0.489 0.622 0.485 0.530 0.550 0.525
0.522 0.497 0.503 0.468 0.348 0.483 0.413 0.459 0.469 0.409
0.206 0.201 0.141 0.282 0.252 0.247 0.247 0.272 0.328 0.293
0.170 0.020 0.010 0.105 0.095 0.151 0.146 0.191 0.256 0.256
-0.177 -0.136 -0.096 -0.141 0.164 0.074 -0.007 0.100 0.115 0.105
-0.343 -0.283 -0.273 -0.277 -0.207 0.043 -0.102 0.048 0.054 0.139
-0.514 -0.509 -0.334 -0.414 -0.364 -0.253 -0.113 -0.053 0.002 0.077
-0.736 -0.620 -0.615 -0.560 -0.500 -0.370 -0.364 -0.274 -0.189 -0.114
-0.857 -0.807 -0.757 -0.691 -0.526 -0.481 -0.426 -0.301 -0.215 [-0.090]

I note that when it did it's grid level, when it got to the far right side, it hit the edge of the printer.

[Roxy-3D]

You might try bumping up the multiplicator to make it more responsive. What happens the number on the LCD Screen? Does the entire LCD screen get taken over by the Z-BabyStepping when you enable it? Can you adjust the number up and down?

On the G29 K 1 0 <----<<< That is an 'Oh' not a Zero, right??? You may have 'maximized' your bed area too much if the probe can't safely and accurately probe the entire bed.

[jasoncross]

You might try bumping up the multiplicator to make it more responsive. What happens the number on the LCD Screen? Does the entire LCD screen get taken over by the Z-BabyStepping when you enable it? Can you adjust the number up and down?

The screen changes to only say Z-Offset: and the number, and as I spin the dial, the number changes. That's how I knew I changed it from -1.4 to -.4(ish) without seeing any change.

On the G29 K 1 0 <----<<< That is an 'Oh' not a Zero, right??? You may have 'maximized' your bed area too much if the probe can't safely and accurately probe the entire bed.

Yes, it was O, not 0. Mistyped in my comment. The 100-pt probe stays within the bounds (I tell it to have a mesh inset of 20). The 4x4 grid probe hits the edge - it's like it's going outside of the mesh inset.

[jasoncross]

Out of curiosity, how does a grid level compensate for the entire mesh being tilted if a comparable grid level isn't done prior to the first creation of the mesh to set a baseline? Wouldn't it otherwise be assuming your first mesh was always at perfectly level?

[Roxy-3D]

OK... The 'J' Grid Leveling code is very new. It works for me on my machine. But you probably found a bug. It will be a couple days until I can look into that. I'm trying to get the Delta functionality that @oldmcg did crossed over to the code base before the 1.1.0 version gets released.

The Grid (and 3-Point) assume you have a suitable mesh defined. But if something causes that surface to get tilted (just as a piece of filament plastic getting under the glass), it will tilt that surface. That sounds like what you have happening. Your mesh describes the surface of the glass. But now you can't get the glass back to its original position.

Its not as accurate... But you could try the three point leveling with G29 T to tilt the mesh.

[jasoncross]

The Grid (and 3-Point) assume you have a suitable mesh defined. But if something causes that surface to get tilted (just as a piece of filament plastic getting under the glass), it will tilt that surface. That sounds like what you have happening. Your mesh describes the surface of the glass. But now you can't get the glass back to its original position.

But isn't that the point of it - to compensate for the tilt of that surface so you don't HAVE to get back to your original exact tilt?

What I'm saying is that without a baseline grid (or 3-pt) to set the tilt for "0" prior to the mesh creation, then the 3-point or grid level later will never have a baseline to tilt the whole mesh against to fix it later (unless the 3-point or grid used existing mesh points only. Then it could extrapolate the original tilt to fix the correct offset).

[jasoncross]

Back to the babystepping issue - is the screen going blank and saying only "Z-Offset" and the number what I should be seeing (that's what I am seeing now). And shouldn't a change of 1 mm be noticeable? Or should I start a separate thread for this to not cross-wires with UBL?

[Roxy-3D]

Yes. Please start a separate thread for the Z-BabyStepping issue.

The mesh bed leveling schemes don't know about or care about 'Bed Tilt'. They know where the surface of the bed is. And they do calculations based on the surrounding mesh points from the nozzle's position. That is why mesh bed leveling is so powerful. Even funny shapes like a bowl shape can be handled by it. But with the 3 point and grid that assume the surface is flat, they can only accommodate a 'tilt' to that flat surface.

[jasoncross]

But isn't the point of the 3-point or grid combined with the mesh to adjust the overall mesh tilt? How does it accurately adjust the overall mesh without knowing the starting values for the same 3-point or grid?

Otherwise any time the tilt changes at all (for example something under the glass, or a printer that uses two z-steppers that get pushed slightly out of whack) you have to do a full mesh creation again which takes some time between mesh, test, adjust, test, adjust, test, etc.

[Roxy-3D]

How does it accurately adjust the overall mesh without knowing the starting values for the same 3-point or grid?

Oh! I understand the question now. The answer is the same as plane leveling of the print bed using the Grid base Least Squares Fit algorithm. When you sample 16 points... Each point's location is 'corrected' by the mesh height at that location. So, the G29 J Grid based Least Squares Fit algorithm has a 'flat surface' to work with. Those 16 points (or what ever you specify) get feed into the LSF algorithm and what comes out are values for the tilt in both the X & Y direction along with a Z offset of the surface.

If you turn the Verbose level up to 4 and do a G29 J4 V4, you will see all the gory details of what it is doing. And you can do a G29 P0 to create a mesh full of zeros so you can just look at the calculated tilt of your bed after the grid sampling.

[d2crafty]

So the issue with my board not using the RCfix is official imo. the BT7272A board rejects the software. My old board which is very similar to the board accepts RCFix with little modification and is similar to the other board.

[d2crafty]

This is what I got so far on my topography

03:17:50.781 : Bed Topography Report:
03:17:50.885 : (0,9) (9,9)
03:17:50.989 : (1,1) (199,199)
03:17:51.143 : . . . . . . . . . .
03:17:51.143 :
03:17:51.296 : . . . . . . . . . .
03:17:51.296 :
03:17:51.477 : 0.197 0.060 0.030 0.007 -0.010 -0.023 -0.088 -0.155 . .
03:17:51.477 :
03:17:51.633 : 0.168 0.120 0.065 0.033 0.012 -0.018 [-0.078] -0.168 . .
03:17:51.633 :
03:17:51.788 : 0.280 0.155 0.100 0.070 0.048 -0.005 -0.073 -0.163 . .
03:17:51.788 :
03:17:51.942 : 0.245 0.195 0.137 0.092 0.063 0.007 -0.067 -0.170 . .
03:17:51.942 :
03:17:52.097 : 0.362 0.242 0.195 0.117 0.063 0.005 -0.075 -0.192 . .
03:17:52.097 :
03:17:52.278 : 0.405 0.283 0.227 0.155 0.080 0.040 -0.088 -0.187 . .
03:17:52.278 :
03:17:52.433 : 0.235 0.298 0.217 0.155 0.077 0.035 -0.085 -0.218 . .
03:17:52.433 :
03:17:52.587 : 0.212 0.355 0.272 0.210 0.153 0.072 -0.055 -0.190 . .
03:17:52.692 : (1,1) (199,1)
03:17:52.797 : (0,0) (9,0)

--

[Roxy-3D]

Wow! Your bed is very warped. You need to fill in the unprobed areas.

• Do a G29 P3 O until everything is filled in.
• G29 S1
• G29 A
• M500
• G26 C P O2.5
• G29 P4 R to edit bad areas
• G29 S 1

[d2crafty]

i measured with calipers to check the height of the bed to make sure everything was the same and did a redo on the mesh. This is what I received.
14:48:22.017 : Bed Topography Report:
14:48:22.121 : (0,9) (9,9)
14:48:22.226 : (1,1) (199,199)
14:48:22.379 : . . . . . . . . . .
14:48:22.380 :
14:48:22.534 : . . . . . . . . . .
14:48:22.534 :
14:48:22.715 : -0.170 -0.250 -0.208 -0.150 -0.078 -0.033 -0.015 -0.007 . .
14:48:22.715 :
14:48:22.869 : -0.115 -0.177 -0.150 -0.103 -0.020 0.033 [ 0.012] 0.007 . .
14:48:22.870 :
14:48:23.050 : 0.005 -0.103 -0.110 -0.018 0.033 0.045 0.072 0.020 . .
14:48:23.050 :
14:48:23.205 : 0.043 -0.025 -0.020 0.040 0.085 0.092 0.085 0.065 . .
14:48:23.205 :
14:48:23.360 : 0.150 0.040 0.075 0.063 0.097 0.122 0.110 0.082 . .
14:48:23.360 :
14:48:23.514 : 0.227 0.092 0.110 0.135 0.115 0.158 0.110 0.077 . .
14:48:23.514 :
14:48:23.669 : 0.175 0.182 0.160 0.173 0.170 0.192 0.145 0.085 . .
14:48:23.669 :
14:48:23.824 : 0.195 0.255 0.227 0.245 0.260 0.250 0.177 0.112 . .
14:48:23.929 : (1,1) (199,1)
14:48:24.033 : (0,0) (9,0)

-- This is after the G29 P3 O

14:49:41.253 : Bed Topography Report:
14:49:41.358 : (0,9) (9,9)
14:49:41.462 : (1,1) (199,199)
14:49:41.615 : . . . . . . . . . .
14:49:41.615 :
14:49:41.796 : -0.170 -0.250 -0.208 -0.150 -0.078 -0.033 -0.015 -0.007 0.000 .
14:49:41.796 :
14:49:41.951 : -0.170 -0.250 -0.208 -0.150 -0.078 -0.033 -0.015 -0.007 0.000 .
14:49:41.951 :
14:49:42.106 : -0.115 -0.177 -0.150 -0.103 -0.020 0.033 [ 0.012] 0.007 0.007 .
14:49:42.106 :
14:49:42.261 : 0.005 -0.103 -0.110 -0.018 0.033 0.045 0.072 0.020 0.020 .
14:49:42.261 :
14:49:42.416 : 0.043 -0.025 -0.020 0.040 0.085 0.092 0.085 0.065 0.065 .
14:49:42.416 :
14:49:42.572 : 0.150 0.040 0.075 0.063 0.097 0.122 0.110 0.082 0.082 .
14:49:42.572 :
14:49:42.752 : 0.227 0.092 0.110 0.135 0.115 0.158 0.110 0.077 0.077 .
14:49:42.752 :
14:49:42.907 : 0.175 0.182 0.160 0.173 0.170 0.192 0.145 0.085 0.085 .
14:49:42.907 :
14:49:43.062 : 0.195 0.255 0.227 0.245 0.260 0.250 0.177 0.112 0.112 .
14:49:43.166 : (1,1) (199,1)
14:49:43.270 : (0,0) (9,0)

[Roxy-3D]

You still have a row of .'s One more G29 P3 O should fill those in. It doesn't matter if the values are correct. It just matters that they are reasonable enough that you don't damage your printer.

After you fill them in... You do a G26 C P O2.5 and it will print a mesh validation pattern across the entire bed. Anything that doesn't look perfect, you edit. And those filled in points will probably need to be edited. But things converge very fast after the first G26. Things will be perfect after 3 or 4 iterations. And from then on... You just print....

[d2crafty]

I got to the Mesh Editor part. how does this work? Thanks -- also It looks like its heating up to use PLA drop during the Priming stage? I ran out of PLA and only have ABS. anyway to edit that?

[Roxy-3D]

Move the nozzle to the center of an area that doesn't look perfect. Do a G29 P4 R O
You can dial each mesh point up or down what ever amount is appropriate. Half a layer height up or down is fine if you have any adhesion at all. Click the wheel... And it will go to the next point. When you have edited the bad area, Press and Hold until it says it is done and repeat for the next less than perfect area.

Save the results... And do another G26. The process will converge very quickly.

[d2crafty]

what are the G26 sub commands? like to set the bed heat, head temp? I'm guessing it would be G26 B(temp) H(temp) then the rest of the commands? what does C, P, O2.5 mean? thanks

[Roxy-3D]

Ah... I don't know... If the person writing the code cared about the user... Maybe they put them as nicely organized comments at the front of the G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp file??? (Yeah... I've been drinking...)

  /**
   *   G26 Mesh Validation Tool
   *
   *   G26 is a Mesh Validation Tool intended to provide support for the Marlin Unified Bed Leveling System.
   *   In order to fully utilize and benefit from the Marlin Unified Bed Leveling System an accurate Mesh must
   *   be defined.  G29 is designed to allow the user to quickly validate the correctness of her Mesh.  It will
   *   first heat the bed and nozzle. It will then print lines and circles along the Mesh Cell boundaries and
   *   the intersections of those lines (respectively).
   *
   *   This action allows the user to immediately see where the Mesh is properly defined and where it needs to
   *   be edited.  The command will generate the Mesh lines closest to the nozzle's starting position.  Alternatively
   *   the user can specify the X and Y position of interest with command parameters.  This allows the user to
   *   focus on a particular area of the Mesh where attention is needed.
   *
   *   B #  Bed   Set the Bed Temperature.  If not specified, a default of 60 C. will be assumed.
   *
   *   C    Current   When searching for Mesh Intersection points to draw, use the current nozzle location
   *        as the base for any distance comparison.
   *
   *   D    Disable   Disable the Unified Bed Leveling System.  In the normal case the user is invoking this
   *        command to see how well a Mesh as been adjusted to match a print surface.  In order to do
   *        this the Unified Bed Leveling System is turned on by the G26 command.  The D parameter
   *        alters the command's normal behaviour and disables the Unified Bed Leveling System even if
   *        it is on.
   *
   *   H #  Hotend    Set the Nozzle Temperature.  If not specified, a default of 205 C. will be assumed.
   *
   *   F #  Filament  Used to specify the diameter of the filament being used.  If not specified
   *        1.75mm filament is assumed.  If you are not getting acceptable results by using the
   *        'correct' numbers, you can scale this number up or down a little bit to change the amount
   *        of filament that is being extruded during the printing of the various lines on the bed.
   *
   *   K    Keep-On   Keep the heaters turned on at the end of the command.
   *
   *   L #  Layer   Layer height.  (Height of nozzle above bed)  If not specified .20mm will be used.
   *
   *   Q #  Multiplier  Retraction Multiplier.  Normally not needed.  Retraction defaults to 1.0mm and
   *        un-retraction is at 1.2mm   These numbers will be scaled by the specified amount
   *
   *   N #  Nozzle    Used to control the size of nozzle diameter.  If not specified, a .4mm nozzle is assumed.
   *
   *   O #  Ooooze    How much your nozzle will Ooooze filament while getting in position to print.  This
   *        is over kill, but using this parameter will let you get the very first 'cicle' perfect
   *        so you have a trophy to peel off of the bed and hang up to show how perfectly you have your
   *        Mesh calibrated.  If not specified, a filament length of .3mm is assumed.
   *
   *   P #  Prime   Prime the nozzle with specified length of filament.  If this parameter is not
   *        given, no prime action will take place.  If the parameter specifies an amount, that much
   *        will be purged before continuing.  If no amount is specified the command will start
   *        purging filament until the user provides an LCD Click and then it will continue with
   *        printing the Mesh.  You can carefully remove the spent filament with a needle nose
   *        pliers while holding the LCD Click wheel in a depressed state.
   *
   *   R #  Random    Randomize the order that the circles are drawn on the bed.  The search for the closest
   *        undrawn cicle is still done.  But the distance to the location for each circle has a
   *        random number of the size specified added to it.  Specifying R50 will give an interesting
   *        deviation from the normal behaviour on a 10 x 10 Mesh.
   *
   *   X #  X coordinate  Specify the starting location of the drawing activity.
   *
   *   Y #  Y coordinate  Specify the starting location of the drawing activity.
   */

[d2crafty]

ok, so this is what I got so far.
-- it seems the middle part is sticking well in g26, the bottom part of g26 is getting too close, the top part of g26 isn't sticking at all.

[Tannoo]

Ah... I don't know... If the person writing the code cared about the user...

Lofl!

[d2crafty]

yea, I suck using the arduino software.. I'm still a noob :/

[Roxy-3D]

OK... We can start with what you have posted in that picture. But for sure... Your probe isn't very accurate!!!

If you move the nozzle to the middle of the lower right... and do a G29 P4 R Raise all those points .2mm

Then go to the top right and do the same thing. do a G29 P4 R and lower those points .2mm.

Save the mesh... Clean and prep the bed. And do another G26. You will see a huge improvement.

And next time... It may be the left side of the bed is where the worst problem is... If so... move the nozzle there and do a G29 P4 R.

[Roxy-3D]

also... One more thing looking at your validation pattern... When your nozzle does a retraction... It keeps oooozing.... And another question: Have you printed on glass? Glass works so much better than printing on tape.

[d2crafty]

Right now, I'm trying to "re-adjust" my bed. however, I'm stuck now. I have the boundaries set,

// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 45
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 45
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170

#define UBL_MESH_INSET 1 // Mesh inset margin on print area
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 10 // Don't use more than 15 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_X 35 // These set the probe locations for when UBL does a 3-Point leveling
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 180 // of the mesh.
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_X 35
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 40
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_X 180
#define UBL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 35
#define UBL_G26_MESH_EDITING // Enable G26 mesh editing

elif ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)

---

Why during G29, it probes, X25 Y32? -- It is clearly not within my set?

[Roxy-3D]

Why during G29, it probes, X25 Y32? -- It is clearly not within my set?

That 'Set' is only for the 3-Point probing to tilt your mesh.

Left, right, etc up above don't even apply to UBL. You cut and pasted those from the Grid Based leveling section. I'll help you more in the morning if you leave detailed questions. But you need to set your X&Y Min&Max positions... Also set your XYZ_OFFSETS_FROM_EXTRUDER. and you might be ready for the first attempt at doing an automatic probe of the bed...

[sarf2k4]

@Roxy-3D I got this error,

sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp.o: In function `gcode_G26()':

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:202: undefined reference to `sync_plan_position_e()'

collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status

exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.

the error above came only when i enabled the mesh editing.

Sorry I didn't get back because saw your post before about a release, I hold it first

I followed the brief guide doing g28, g29 p 1, g29 s 1, g29 o and here are the results

(5,185)                                                                        (195,185)
    .      0.275    0.030    0.195   -0.177   -0.170   -0.312   -0.528   -0.705   -0.857

    .      0.275    0.177    0.262   -0.043   -0.133   -0.367   -0.390   -0.643   -0.753

    .      0.273    0.265    0.038   -0.035   -0.143   -0.220   -0.475   -0.600   -0.763

    .      0.340    0.252    0.112   -0.028   -0.070   -0.207   -0.440   -0.342   -0.650

    .      0.345    0.222    0.058    0.023   -0.055   -0.205   -0.288   -0.543   -0.705

    .      0.332    0.192  [ 0.112]   0.002   -0.053   -0.192   -0.298   -0.545   -0.465

    .      0.283    0.423    0.122    0.170   -0.023   -0.197   -0.143   -0.515   -0.675

    .      0.437    0.200    0.363    0.045   -0.028   -0.185   -0.367   -0.295   -0.530

    .      0.495    0.430    0.200    0.130    0.002   -0.130   -0.288   -0.520   -0.690

    .      0.530    0.427    0.275    0.120    0.035   -0.055   -0.240   -0.465   -0.472
(5,15)                                                                            (195,15)

But saw that I must enable the mesh editing, the above topo was from before the mesh editing enabled but error.
I am using ramps 1.4 efb, 2 extruder single nozzle setup

[Roxy-3D]

So a G29 P3 should fill in the left hand column of numbers. And then a G29 S1 to save it. So just to be clear:

• G29 P3 O
• G29 A
• G29 S1
• M500

And I think you are ready to see what a G26 C P O2.5 looks like.

[sarf2k4]

even with the mesh editing disabled? It's getting late and apparently the mesh data above were reset. I got to redo it from the beginning. Right now got to have rest then I will continue tomorrow.

[Roxy-3D]

Oh! I didn't realize you had mesh editing disabled. Can you turn it on? That is how you get the full benefit of the system and everything perfectly tuned.

[sarf2k4]

I cant, it throws me an error on my previous post above

On 01:01, Sat, 6 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Oh! I didn't realize you had mesh editing disabled. Can you turn it on?
That is how you get the full benefit of the system and everything perfectly
tuned.

—
You are receiving this because you commented.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299519764,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMecNQHNMYIpuM5wUb-cfpEHC6Q3rKks5r21XtgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

I cant, it throws me an error on my previous post above

I just pulled down a fresh copy of bugfix-v1.1.0 and put my Configuration.h files in the directory. I've got everything turned on and it compiles just fine. I think you should do the same thing. Get a fresh copy and drop your Configuration.h files into the directory and try again... You really want G26!

(I think it is possible your files got corrupted somehow.)

[sarf2k4]

I will try, because i used the initial 1.1.0 release, arduino ide 1.6.8
with 1.6.10 compiler inside it.

Both bugfix and initial 1.1.0 config.h has the same exact structure right?

On 04:47, Sat, 6 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

I cant, it throws me an error on my previous post above

I just pulled down a fresh copy of bugfix-v1.1.0 and put my
Configuration.h files in the directory. I've got everything turned on and
it compiles just fine. I think you should do the same thing. Get a fresh
copy and drop your Configuration.h files into the directory and try
again... You really want G26!

(I think it is possible your files got corrupted somehow.)

—
You are receiving this because you commented.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299571599,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMecYKXwq3cbjwMbtLYGsqho9TtqXpks5r24rRgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

use bugfix-v1.1.0 It already has a couple of bug fixes in it. But other than that... they are almost the same thing.

[sarf2k4]

I just compiled the latest bugfix that I downloaded minutes ago, similar error

sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp.o: In function `move_to(float const&, float const&, float const&, float const&)':

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:531: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:553: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp.o: In function `prime_nozzle()':

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:831: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:844: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:867: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp.o:sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:872: more undefined references to `set_destination_to_current()' follow

sketch\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp.o: In function `gcode_G26()':

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:202: undefined reference to `sync_plan_position_e()'

sketch/G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:219: undefined reference to `set_destination_to_current()'

collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status

exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control
Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD

[d2crafty]

well, I almost got perfect adhesion with shitty tape on my bed.. however, as you can see the print was on the lower left of the nozzle bed, which in turn the adjustment screw hit the sensor which knocked it out of wack on the lower right end. which now I probably won't get the same adhesion again. Question: How do I shift where the g26 prints so it is more in the middle of the bed? thanks That print was ending on x0 y0 it seems, which is the far lower right corner

[Roxy-3D]

Question: How do I shift where the g26 prints so it is more in the middle of the bed? thanks That print was ending on x0 y0 it seems, which is the far lower right corner.

You can't do that... The whole purpose is to show you how well each mesh point is adjusted across the entire bed. (well... You could use an inset to shrink the mesh, but then you give up print space)

But... What you can do is this: You can move the nozzle to one corner and do a G29 P O2.5 (without the C) and it will expand outward from that point. You can stop it after you cover a section. You do not have to let the G26 run to completion. Also... it looks like you have a lot of filament coming out. Do you use 3.mm filament? Because if you do, you have too much coming out. Less filament will make it easier to see where you need to edit the mesh. (G26 defaults to 1.75mm filament)

But anyway... comparing the lower right to the rest of the validation pattern... It looks like you need to lower those points a little bit.

[sarf2k4]

need help on error i got upon enabling g26 mesh editing =D

[Roxy-3D]

@sarf2k4 Can you rename your configuration.h and configuration_adv.h file to .txt files and attach them to a post? I'll do a build with them and see if I can figure out what is happening...

[sarf2k4]

here it is

Configuration.txt
Configuration_adv.txt

[Roxy-3D]

@sarf2k4

I pulled down a fresh copy of BugFix-v1.1.0 and I dropped your files into the directory (with .h instead of .txt) I have Arduino v1.8.2 installed. Everything compiled clean.

Are these invalid libraries causing trouble? Maybe you should uninstall Arduino and re-install v1.8.2 because it compiled clean for me with that. And the uninstall will probably clean up those libraries:

Invalid library found in C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesRobot_Control: C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesRobot_Control
Invalid library found in C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesSD: C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesSD

[sarf2k4]

Its arduino 1.8.2 already? Maybe i should try on 1.8.2 also then and report
my findings on that error

[sarf2k4]

ok, I confirmed it, you got to have latest arduino ide 1.8.2 to avoid those errors. I'm able to flash the board without them as well. Also I got some invalid library thingy

Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control
Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD
Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Robot_Control
Invalid library found in C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\SD

Also here is my topo map after doing g29 p3 o up until m500

Bed Topography Report:
(0,9)                                                                           (9,9)
(5,185)                                                                        (195,185)
  0.218    0.168    0.117    0.132   -0.160   -0.270   -0.312   -0.630   -0.630   -0.800

  0.170    0.170    0.315   -0.003   -0.003   -0.155   -0.413   -0.630   -0.790   -0.955

  0.157    0.157    0.282    0.007   -0.023   -0.228   -0.320   -0.543   -0.613   -0.943

  0.320    0.225    0.130    0.060    0.072   -0.163   -0.323   -0.525   -0.728   -0.718

  0.460    0.240    0.020    0.000   -0.055   -0.058   -0.312   -0.335   -0.513   -0.803

  0.220    0.135    0.050  [ 0.177]  -0.048   -0.025   -0.320   -0.475   -0.703   -0.805

  0.502    0.397    0.293    0.140    0.082   -0.063   -0.320   -0.288   -0.485   -0.650

  0.157    0.157    0.305    0.010    0.090   -0.087   -0.238   -0.473   -0.580   -0.798

  0.202    0.202    0.262    0.035    0.043   -0.175   -0.302   -0.460   -0.645   -0.785

  0.332    0.332    0.350    0.100    0.097   -0.135   -0.238   -0.423   -0.610   -0.773
(5,15)                                                                            (195,15)
(0,0) 

[Roxy-3D]

Before we continue further... You have a lot of tilt to your bed. If you can raise the right side of the bed by 1mm things will go much better...

But if you don't want to do that.... You can activate the system with G29 A and do a G26 C P O2.5 to see how well the probe measured the bed.

[sarf2k4]

okay, will do that, just that when i was using bilinear, the nozzle will push down further on left side while the right side the z axis will raise further.

after raising I had to do the g29 p 1, g29 p 0, g29, g29 p3 o up till m500 again right?

[Roxy-3D]

If you raise the right side 1mm... Then do:

• G29 P1 ;to auto probe entire bed
• G29 P3 ;to fill in any unprobed locations
• G29 O ;to print the map
• G29 S1 ;to save the map
• G29 A ;to activate the map
• M500 ;to tell the system to wake up with the map active
• G26 C P O2.5 ; Post a picture and I'll have advice for you in the morning...

[sarf2k4]

will do the g26 later, but here is my topo after raising the bed by 1mm using caliper measured at the corner

Bed Topography Report:
(0,9)                                                                           (9,9)
(5,185)                                                                        (195,185)
 -0.257   -0.257   -0.255   -0.080   -0.082   -0.097   -0.315   -0.490   -0.330   -0.550

  0.063   -0.090   -0.243   -0.010   -0.250   -0.190   -0.255   -0.177   -0.168   -0.438

 -0.163   -0.163   -0.018   -0.082   -0.003    0.070   -0.153   -0.085   -0.333   -0.348

 -0.035   -0.035    0.000   -0.080    0.082   -0.138    0.072   -0.072    0.030   -0.220

  0.033   -0.005   -0.043    0.147    0.092    0.140   -0.015    0.010    0.112    0.067

  0.217    0.097   -0.023  [-0.003]   0.242    0.060    0.140    0.210   -0.092   -0.110

  0.240    0.192    0.145    0.157    0.362    0.170    0.152    0.285    0.027   -0.030

  0.480    0.310    0.140    0.392    0.147    0.222    0.310    0.165    0.048    0.005

  0.600    0.407    0.215    0.187    0.192    0.237    0.392    0.240    0.127    0.127

  0.462    0.367    0.272    0.315    0.352    0.397    0.347    0.242    0.482    0.235
(5,15)                                                                            (195,15)
(0,0)                                                                             (9,0)

also, is there any g26 parameter such as temperature, because I am using abs

[Tannoo]

I believe it defaults to abs temps, but using Bxxx Hxxx with it will set the bed and hotend respectively.

[sarf2k4]

just checked the g26.cpp file, found it. it will be defaulted to pla. Currently I have it heating up to abs suitable temps

[sarf2k4]

I've printed the test pattern, measured the pattern using digital caliper, some point gives me 0.3mm, some of them close to 0.6mm

[d2crafty]

I'm using 1.75mm filament when running the test.

[Roxy-3D]

@sarf2k4 Your Topography Map looks good. You have the front of the bed .5mm higher than the back. It would be good to lower that, but let's get you up and running. Next time you have to generate a mesh, it would be good to fix that. But you will still get very good results if we continue on.

Can you post a picture of your G26 ? With the G26 Pattern still on the bed... You want to move the nozzle to areas that don't look perfect. And when in the center of an area... You do a G29 P4 R It will edit mesh point after mesh point until you press and hold the encoder wheel.

[sarf2k4]

ok, let me do the pattern again and post it to you. But my initial report was that the nozzle was too far from the bed surface, i need to adjust the ubl z offset there

[sarf2k4]

here you go http://share.pho.to/AgqgF . I still need to adjust the ubl z-offset because its quite far

[Roxy-3D]

You have all the good florescent colors! It looks like your mesh points are all a little bit too low. The 'Right' thing to do is to get your Z-Probe more accurately configured. But you can do a G29 P6 C -.1 to lower the entire mesh by .1 mm No reason to save the mesh until you do a G26 to see if it prints better... I think it will. And it maybe you want to lower it another .1mm after the first G26.

Ideally... most of the lines should be 'squished' into the bed so you have good adhesion.

[sarf2k4]

can you explain about the g29 p6 c 0.1 parameters as well?

[Roxy-3D]

G29 P6 raises or lowers the entire mesh by what ever C-onstant amount you specify.

So a G29 P6 C -.1 will lower everything by .1mm You can verify that with a G29 O before and after you lower it. (I corrected the error up above... You want to lower your mesh a small amount. Not raise it.)

If you do a G29 P6 C-.1 and then do a G26 C P O.25 I think it is going to look better. And then... If that is true... We can start fine tuning small areas of the mesh. For example the lower right corner.

[sarf2k4]

is the O parameter for g26 similar to retracts? Currently I am doing the pattern with o2.5

[sarf2k4]

it is done, at http://share.pho.to/Agqtb here

[Roxy-3D]

The O parameter on G29 is to do a Map. In fact... You can still use an 'M' to do a map. But people thought it was sacrilegious to use M or G within a GCode command. So... I needed to give those people a way not to feel like a heretic when they used UBL.

[Roxy-3D]

That link isn't working.... Did you see a difference in how it printed? (Like with more squish to the lines and better adhesion?)

[sarf2k4]

I was referring to g26, not g29.

I also fixed the link above, I was doing in from my phone (re-type the link, not efficient, i know it) but its up to the correct image now.
The printed pattern, some of them squished more, some of them still slightly thicker. one of them more squished. I used digital caliper to measure its thickness, the thinnest was 0.1mm, thickest is about 0.45mm

[Roxy-3D]

The O parameter in G26 is for Ooooze. The problem is with the nozzle heated up, it always Ooooozes filament. It takes time to lower the nozzle to the bed and no matter what, some filament is going to Ooooze out. So to get the nozzle ready to really go, a little bit of extra filament has to be put back into the nozzle.

So, Yes! O is kind of the opposite of doing a retraction. But in this case, the filament didn't go away because of a retraction. It went away because it Ooooozed out.

[sarf2k4]

aaahhhh... i see now. its more like to compensate the 'missing' filament due to oozing without extrusion, similar to 'extra restart after retract' feature in slicers.

I'm going to continue tomorrow on fine tuning the mesh point further. Looks like I got more than 10 points to adjust for good first layer

note:
after you stated -0.1mm will reduce the nozzle lower, I canceled the previous pattern test then put -0.2mm to compensate the +0.1mm.

To save the current mesh, I do g29 s2 to save at slot 2 right?

[Roxy-3D]

aaahhhh... i see now. its more like to compensate the 'missing' filament due to oozing without extrusion, similar to 'extra restart after retract' feature in slicers.

Yes.

Your Latest G26 is looking good. It is so easy to fine tune and edit the mesh points you really ought to do that. But that is good enough to print something that stretches across the bed.

I like to have Z-BabyStepping turned on and I also turn on the

#define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING

in the configuration_adv.h file When your print starts... You can double click and move the nozzle to get exactly the right amount of 'squish' for perfect adhesion.

[sarf2k4]

I got that enabled now, what is the next step?

On 01:13, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

aaahhhh... i see now. its more like to compensate the 'missing' filament
due to oozing without extrusion, similar to 'extra restart after retract'
feature in slicers.

Yes.

Your Latest G26 is looking good. It is so easy to fine tune and edit the
mesh points you really ought to do that. But that is good enough to print
something that stretches across the bed.

I like to have Z-BabyStepping turned on and I also turn on the

define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING

in the configuration_adv.h file When your print starts... You can double
click and move the nozzle to get exactly the right amount of 'squish' for
perfect adhesion.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299720207,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeUmeq4Ve6WuFYrQU9g0SWvxU7oInks5r3furgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[d2crafty]

I noticed my prints are smaller than they should be. 10mm box would come out to 8.32mm in size. how do I adjust this in the software?

[sarf2k4]

Here is the result of 9 point 1 layer print, unable to print the right side
especially rear part because its too high for the plastic to stick, i guess
i need to adjust these corners in the eeprom like filling in the empty
point in ripple effect adjustment, is there such a feature?

Please copy and paste link below
Pho.to/AgsY7

These restrictions of uploading pictures from phone and submitting via pc
is so troublesome, inbox didnt allow me to paste full link from clipboard
into this text body

On 13:00, Mon, 8 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

I got that enabled now, what is the next step?

On 01:13, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

aaahhhh... i see now. its more like to compensate the 'missing' filament
due to oozing without extrusion, similar to 'extra restart after retract'
feature in slicers.

Yes.

Your Latest G26 is looking good. It is so easy to fine tune and edit the
mesh points you really ought to do that. But that is good enough to print
something that stretches across the bed.

I like to have Z-BabyStepping turned on and I also turn on the

define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING

in the configuration_adv.h file When your print starts... You can double
click and move the nozzle to get exactly the right amount of 'squish' for
perfect adhesion.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299720207,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeUmeq4Ve6WuFYrQU9g0SWvxU7oInks5r3furgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

That is in the configuration.h file:

/**
 * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
 * Override with M92
 *                                      X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3]]]
 */
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80, 80, 400, 96 }

[sarf2k4]

@d2crafty, you could try adjust them via m92 settings, but that depends on
your pulley size

On 13:43, Mon, 8 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

Here is the result of 9 point 1 layer print, unable to print the right
side especially rear part because its too high for the plastic to stick, i
guess i need to adjust these corners in the eeprom like filling in the
empty point in ripple effect adjustment, is there such a feature?

Please copy and paste link below
Pho.to/AgsY7

These restrictions of uploading pictures from phone and submitting via pc
is so troublesome, inbox didnt allow me to paste full link from clipboard
into this text body

On 13:00, Mon, 8 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

I got that enabled now, what is the next step?

On 01:13, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

aaahhhh... i see now. its more like to compensate the 'missing' filament
due to oozing without extrusion, similar to 'extra restart after retract'
feature in slicers.

Yes.

Your Latest G26 is looking good. It is so easy to fine tune and edit the
mesh points you really ought to do that. But that is good enough to print
something that stretches across the bed.

I like to have Z-BabyStepping turned on and I also turn on the

define DOUBLECLICK_FOR_Z_BABYSTEPPING

in the configuration_adv.h file When your print starts... You can double
click and move the nozzle to get exactly the right amount of 'squish' for
perfect adhesion.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299720207,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeUmeq4Ve6WuFYrQU9g0SWvxU7oInks5r3furgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

The lower left corner mesh point(s) are too low. But without the G26 pattern on the bed, it is hard to tell what is going on. Some times it is useful to print the G26 pattern, leave it on the bed, and then to the print you care about.

[sarf2k4]

Print on top of printed g26?

On 13:46, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

The lower left corner mesh point(s) are too low. But without the G26
pattern on the bed, it is hard to tell what is going on. Some times it is
useful to print the G26 pattern, leave it on the bed, and then to the print
you care about.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299778287,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeW-iPD1N1-wzQ3O4NVRSfns-nTA1ks5r3qxLgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[sarf2k4]

Also, what about the m851 parameters, does it affect my nozzle to bed
distance as well for ubl?

On 13:48, Mon, 8 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

Print on top of printed g26?

On 13:46, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

The lower left corner mesh point(s) are too low. But without the G26
pattern on the bed, it is hard to tell what is going on. Some times it is
useful to print the G26 pattern, leave it on the bed, and then to the print
you care about.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299778287,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeW-iPD1N1-wzQ3O4NVRSfns-nTA1ks5r3qxLgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Print on top of printed g26?

Yes. I do it all the time. Your parts will come out just fine.

Also, what about the m851 parameters, does it affect my nozzle to bed
distance as well for ubl?

Yes. And it is best to get that accurately set before you start generating a mesh. But if it is not accurate... It doesn't matter where you are in the process... You want to get that set correctly.

[sarf2k4]

Is it possible if i dont want to print on top of the ubl pattern? (Im gonna
call it ubl pattern now, it only exist for ubl)

[Roxy-3D]

Yes... of course... I just want to see a mesh validation pattern. Because I can't tell where the corners of the print area are and I can't tell how far apart the mesh points are. The lower right mesh point(s) are/is too low. But I can't even tell you the scope of the problem without seeing where the mesh points are.

[sarf2k4]

Ok, will do the ubl pattern, then the 9 point

On 13:58, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Yes... of course... I just want to see a mesh validation pattern. Because
I can't tell where the corners of the print area are and I can't tell how
far apart the mesh points are. The lower right mesh point(s) are/is too
low. But I can't even tell you the scope of the problem without seeing
where the mesh points are.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299779628,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeatia-M-rBNMdpk3OXXDW1Gfr02oks5r3q7sgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[d2crafty]

Does baby stepping give a perminante effect when used during a print adjust for future prints?

[Roxy-3D]

Ok, will do the ubl pattern, then the 9 point

Don't do the 9-point.... That may be why we are seeing the issue. Just do the pattern and print. My guess is it will come out fine.

[sarf2k4]

If you enabled m851/z-offset linked with babystepping then yes, if not,
only for that session till reset

On 14:01, Mon, 8 May 2017 d2crafty, [e-mail] wrote:

Does baby stepping give a perminante effect when used during a print
adjust for future prints?

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299779995,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeSAfBWkT9O8jfJoooA22lxk5fRqTks5r3q-egaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Does baby stepping give a perminante effect when used during a print adjust for future prints?

Once you re-home... It is gone. (except if you set those options in Configuration_adv.h) I don't know what happens in that case.

[sarf2k4]

Can a g28 be issued everytime g26 is done? It is to avoid head crashing to
unwanted areas because we often move the head manually after its completed.

I mean include g28 into g26

On 14:03, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Does baby stepping give a perminante effect when used during a print
adjust for future prints?

Once you re-home... It is gone. (except if you set those options in
Configuration_adv.h) I don't know what happens in that case.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299780330,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeTlq1PPYEll461VHsZvRfZONnoVrks5r3rA7gaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[sarf2k4]

Here is the ubl pattern http://share.pho.to/Agsf6

On 14:13, Mon, 8 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

Can a g28 be issued everytime g26 is done? It is to avoid head crashing to
unwanted areas because we often move the head manually after its completed.

I mean include g28 into g26

On 14:03, Mon, 8 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Does baby stepping give a perminante effect when used during a print
adjust for future prints?

Once you re-home... It is gone. (except if you set those options in
Configuration_adv.h) I don't know what happens in that case.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-299780330,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeTlq1PPYEll461VHsZvRfZONnoVrks5r3rA7gaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

G26 moves back to its start position at the end. Do you not want that? One simple option would be to move your nozzle to the home position and issue the G26 from there. Would that work for you?

Certainly a G28 could be done at the end of the G26 but I don't think most people would want that.

On your pattern up above... You can now start editing the areas that are not perfect. It doesn't look like you have any areas that are pushed too far into the bed. It looks like you have a lot of areas that need to be lowered.

[d2crafty]

hey roxy, thank you for all the time you spent on helping us get our printers tuned. Even though I fixed my new board and resorted to going back too it (quieter stepper drivers for one), I hope I can find a way to get this board to accept the new revision for ubl printing, which I thought was really interesting 2 weeks straight (6+ hours) almost a day to get things aligned. Maybe I'll upgrade my old board stepper drivers and just go back to my backup board. Sadly, not for now. Again, thank you for your time. Michel

[Roxy-3D]

Not a problem... On eBay... You can get a RAMPS v1.4 with Atmega2560 for $25 (including step sticks)

When your ready... The documentation will be better too!

[sarf2k4]

I meant do g28 before ubl pattern, but that is ok as well

I will lower the nozzle even further, looks like about -0.2mm will do

On 10:33, Tue, 9 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Not a problem... On eBay... You can get a RAMPS v1.4 with Atmega2560 for
$25 (including step sticks)

When your ready... The documentation will be better too!

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300044685,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMebxIz0Fkt0UBKDucOpVrKGrRRi9tks5r39CRgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[sarf2k4]

Here is the latest after i brought down by 0.1mm @roxy3d
http://share.pho.to/Agy23

On 15:00, Tue, 9 May 2017 sarf2k4, [e-mail] wrote:

I meant do g28 before ubl pattern, but that is ok as well

I will lower the nozzle even further, looks like about -0.2mm will do

On 10:33, Tue, 9 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Not a problem... On eBay... You can get a RAMPS v1.4 with Atmega2560 for
$25 (including step sticks)

When your ready... The documentation will be better too!

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300044685,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMebxIz0Fkt0UBKDucOpVrKGrRRi9tks5r39CRgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Good! Now you have a mix of points that need to move different directions. At index (5,1) you need to bring that point up .1mm or .15mm. (and its neighbor points maybe half that) And also some of the points along the (9,4) edge. But some points near the (0,2) edge probably need to go down .1mm .

The really neat thing is you adjust 10 points.... You will see improvement. You will get a feel for how much to adjust a point very quickly.

[sarf2k4]

Could you show me the command to edit the location point?

On 23:37, Tue, 9 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Good! Now you have a mix of points that need to move different directions.
At index (5,1) you need to bring that point up .1mm or .15mm. And also some
of the points along the (9,4) edge. But some points near the (0,2) edge
probably need to go down .1mm .

The really neat thing is you adjust 10 points.... You will see
improvement. You will get a feel for how much to adjust a point very
quickly.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300204231,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeayq_USJQwV7n9XUb3gTm_4Ux71Aks5r4IhFgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

It is real simple....

• Move the nozzle to the center of the area that you want to edit.
• Send a G29 P4 R O (The O is nice because you will see the before and after numbers)
• The nozzle will move to the closest mesh point that has not been edited.
• Turn the Encoder Wheel up or down. A +/- .15 mm change is the worst I see.
• The nozzle will move to the next closest position. If it is half as bad as the first point, adjust it +/- .8 mm
• When done in an area... Press and Hold the Encoder Wheel until it confirms it knows you are done.
• Move the nozzle to the next bad area. Repeat process. Just because the nozzle is over a point, you don't have to turn the encoder wheel. You can just click to jump to the next location.
• Save the updated mesh with a G29 S1
• Print a new G26 pattern... You should see an improvement.

[sarf2k4]

Can i just issue a coorinate editing almost similar to g29 p6 c -0.1
instead of i had to try and error for the location to be edited?

On 23:50, Tue, 9 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

It is real simple....

• Move the nozzle to the center of the area that you want to edit.
• Send a G29 P4 R O (The O is nice because you will see the before and
  after numbers)
• The nozzle will move to the closest mesh point that has not been
  edited.
• Turn the Encoder Wheel up or down. A +/- .15 mm change is the worst
  I see.
• The nozzle will move to the next closest position. If it is half as
  bad as the first point, adjust it +/- .8 mm
• When done in an area... Press and Hold the Encoder Wheel until it
  confirms it knows you are done.
• Move the nozzle to the next bad area. Repeat process. Just because
  the nozzle is over a point, you don't have to turn the encoder wheel. You
  can just click to jump to the next location.
• Save the updated mesh with a G29 S1
• Print a new G26 pattern... You should see an improvement.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300208337,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMecjNP9U0WYn0o72kDK-WB2-1GTTAks5r4ItLgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Yes... You can do a G29 S-1 to get all the mesh numbers in a form they can be fed back in. You can edit any of those numbers to what you want them to be. And you can 'Print' that file to get them back in.

But really.... The G29 P4 R mesh editor is nice. It is very quick and easy to use.

[sarf2k4]

Almost there http://share.pho.to/AgyW7

But if the p4 can use index location 0-9 for x and y, then just specify
raise or lower by an amount of number, it would be much better and faster
dont you think? Or move to the ubl index location then initiate the fine
tuning

Gonna continue tomorrow

On 00:16, Wed, 10 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Yes... You can do a G29 S-1 to get all the mesh numbers in a form they can
be fed back in. You can edit any of those numbers to what you want them to
be. And you can 'Print' that file to get them back in.

But really.... The G29 P4 R mesh editor is nice. It is very quick and easy
to use.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300217752,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeR62RDEFD6ZvVstK_YOeMeoYjGwxks5r4JFMgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Well... If I was going to do that... It would be better if it was not P4. It might be that I modify M421. Right now M421 takes the X & Y index and a Z offset number. We could make it take the X & Y index and a shift in the Z offset number (maybe with a Q instead of a Z) ???

Then you could just type in what location you wanted to shift and by how much.

Oh! I forgot to say: I CAN SEE THE IMPROVEMENT! You still have a little bit more editing to do... But you should be able to do very large prints easily now.

[sarf2k4]

I take it m421 x5 y8 z-0.5?

Maybe you could make z and q together, while z is to set exact value, while
q to add/subtract the issued value

Another question, does the m851 z offset has any use during printing and
the nozzle to bed distance affected?

On 02:00, Wed, 10 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Well... If I was going to do that... It would be better if it was not P4.
It might be that I modify M421. Right now M421 takes the X & Y index and a
Z offset number. We could make it take the X & Y index and a shift in the Z
offset number (maybe with a Q instead of a Z) ???

Then you could just type in what location you wanted to shift and by how
much.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300250803,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeTF7ZfvgLS_VFQ9WZj1P128wpYmNks5r4KmwgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Maybe you could make z and q together, while z is to set exact value, while q to add/subtract the issued
value

Yeah... I would change M421 to accept either a Z or a Q (and not both). Z would set to an absolute number. Q would shift the existing number up or down.

Another question, does the m851 z offset has any use during printing and
the nozzle to bed distance affected?

M851 will set the probe offset. So, it is going to affect your homing and probing operations. Once your mesh is dialed in... If you change M851 to a new number, you will see the nozzle height affected by it. If you change the M851 number by .1 mm you will see the nozzle move up or down .1 mm relative to the bed after homing.

[bgort]

The Q idea is something I was wanting, too, FWIW.

[sarf2k4]

I see, i last time use at -1.25, now at -1.55mm offset. What about the g26
ubl pattern? Does it affected by the m851 as well?

The 1.25mm is before i started this ubl setup and printed something simple,
while 1.55mm thought the ubl pattern might get affected

On 02:23, Wed, 10 May 2017 bgort, [e-mail] wrote:

The Q idea is something I was wanting, too, FWIW.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300257849,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeVkTMR6FOqKvFjdyz-ALfvPaXm5zks5r4K8igaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

I see, i last time use at -1.25, now at -1.55mm offset. What about the g26
ubl pattern? Does it affected by the m851 as well?

Only in the sense the machine is going to home to a different height. If you don't tell it to do anything different, G26 is going to set the nozzle to a height of .2 mm and print the pattern. If the UBL System is active, the nozzle will move up or down to track the mesh offsets. But that base height of .2 mm is constant. And that is determined by where the machine homes the nozzle.

The Q idea is something I was wanting, too, FWIW.

OK... Coming up. I was just looking at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M421:_Set_a_Mesh_Bed_Leveling_Z_coordinate to see how hard it was going to be to keep the documentation correct. It looks like the cheat sheet of which firmware support it has to be done also. But that is just a cut and paste.

[sarf2k4]

Just confirmed that m851 also affects the ubl pattern. Still continuing the fine tuning =D

[sarf2k4]

Forgot to ask, if I were to print, no need to include g29 anymore right? what happens if g29 without parameter were issued right before printing?

[Tannoo]

Save it and you won't need to unless something changes with the printer's bed or z axis.

[Tannoo]

With UBL, G29 with no parameters, does nothing.

[sarf2k4]

I ran a quick 9-point 1 layer only test, found out that my nozzle are too far from the bed, had to lower down by 0.4mm to get a good adhesion. But the results are kind of similar to the previous 9-point prints, rear right being too far, front right being too close, middle had a good adhesion and evenness of the extruded plastic.

I was thinking that it is better to find a good 1-point center print for adhesion+correct first layer thickness for the z-offset m851 before fiddling with UBL mesh points

[benlye]

But the results are kind of similar to the previous 9-point prints, rear right being too far, front right being too close, middle had a good adhesion and evenness of the extruded plastic.

Did you ever measure the physical X and Y offset of your probe after it was printed and installed? I notice much earlier in the thread you said you got them from the model - it might be worth checking that they are truly accurate. Having them out by 1-2mm is known to cause the effect you describe.

[sarf2k4]

let me inspect the x y offset first

edit:
the only part that was off was the y axis, it was off by 2-3mm, exact location is 8.5, but I use 9mm instead. X axis is still the same

edit 2:
I will redo the probe from scratch and do the ubl pattern after i reached 100'c

[Roxy-3D]

You should get the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER set very accurately before trying to build a mesh for the UBL System. You should be able to home the printer, and print some small parts in the center of the bed with the UBL system disabled. Until that is possible... People should not be building mesh's and trying to bring the system up.

@Bob-the-Kuhn Can we insert the thoughts in that previous paragraph in the 'UBL Quick Start Guide' ?

[sarf2k4]

I'm sorry, I thought the bltouch would be at 90' degree angle on the y plane view.

would it be okay to add another g-code to print a crosshair almost similar to ubl pattern instead of having to use stl file? just a suggestion though

[Roxy-3D]

would it be okay to add another g-code to print a crosshair almost similar to ubl pattern instead of having to use stl file? just a suggestion though

@bgort and I are discussing doing a Fast G26 print right now.

[bgort]

Has there been a discussion about making G26 available generally? Not just within UBL, I mean...

[sarf2k4]

I think it willnbe a good idea for manual mesh leveling too

On 03:35, Thu, 11 May 2017 bgort, [e-mail] wrote:

Has there been a discussion about making G26 available generally? Not just
within UBL, I mean...

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300589590,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeTfCuGgvWA9hCrRGTddaIM58b9faks5r4hFtgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

Yes... And in fact... That is why there is not a ubl_ in front of the G26 file name. But nobody has done the work yet to get it working with the original Mesh leveling or Bi-Linear Mesh leveling.

[sarf2k4]

I also wonder if it is possible to edit the current mesh bed point almost
similar to ubl. I think ubl are more suitable for large or variable surface
profile at different temp, abs and pla bed temp are 2 different profile.

Prusa firmware, uses the normal mesh auto leceling but also has mesh
correction, only 4 point; left, right, front, back. But not at the corners.
I am not saying original marlin are bad.

I actually proposed similar idea more than a year ago but i dont know why
got rejected nor neglected. In essence, to me, ubl are good for something
like using messed up cutting board as a surface. No offense in the ubl, it
is very good but i also think that why not we try to improve the existing
ones by extending its features?

I might one to talk, but i prefer to keep the setting up simple.

Hope this can be considered =D

On 03:53, Thu, 11 May 2017 Roxy-3D, [e-mail] wrote:

Yes... And in fact... That is why there is not a ubl_ in front of the G26
file name. But nobody has done the work yet to get it working with the
original Mesh leveling or Bi-Linear Mesh leveling.

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300594018,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeZw_WzX1rArPtfFTQmUsew2Xp6obks5r4hWegaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[bgort]

I believe you can edit the mesh bed leveling points with M421 ... ? Don't quote me on that, but I believe I saw it when looking at M421 not too long ago.

[Roxy-3D]

I believe you can edit the mesh bed leveling points with M421 ... ? Don't quote me on that, but I believe I saw it when looking at M421 not too long ago.

Yes... And tonight... or maybe it ends up being tomorrow... I'll be adding the Q option to M421 so you can bump the mesh point by the Q amount instead of setting it to an absolute number with the Z parameter.

[bgort]

Will it adjust the closest point, or will we have to specify I and J coordinates?

'Adjust the closest point' would be very nice! That way, I could just move around the bed and hit the 'raise' or 'lower' button on my little menu of commands without having to touch the encoder dial, which I dislike, generally (the wheel itself, not anything to do with UBL).

[Roxy-3D]

That could be "Yet another parameter!" But right now... I was thinking it would apply to both the (i,j) or (x,y) mesh point being identified.

[bgort]

That's very helpful too.. don't get me wrong...

[sarf2k4]

But the m421 is only for ubl is it not?

On 04:32, Thu, 11 May 2017 bgort, [e-mail] wrote:

That's very helpful too.. don't get me wrong...

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300603776,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMed5JkYptdXAHP3wEgIHV5oLgaFqQks5r4h7QgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[Roxy-3D]

But the m421 is only for ubl is it not?

Ah... I don't know...
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M421:_Set_a_Mesh_Bed_Leveling_Z_coordinate

[Bob-the-Kuhn]

Here's the comments from the code

#if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)
  /**
   * M421: Set a single Mesh Bed Leveling Z coordinate
   * Use either 'M421 X<linear> Y<linear> Z<linear>' or 'M421 I<xindex> J<yindex> Z<linear>'
   */
...
#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)

  /**
   * M421: Set a single Mesh Bed Leveling Z coordinate
   *
   *   M421 I<xindex> J<yindex> Z<linear>
   */

[sarf2k4]

Can it be extended for mesh bed leveling?

Edit:

Just read the comment from @Bob-the-Kuhn and the reprap g-code for marlin on m421, It should be okay, I'm going to try it out. Is there any command to print the mesh mapping too?

On 12:27, Thu, 11 May 2017 Bob-the-Kuhn, [e-mail] wrote:

Here's the comments from the code

if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)

/**

• M421: Set a single Mesh Bed Leveling Z coordinate
• Use either 'M421 X Y Z' or 'M421 I J Z'
  */
  ...

elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)

/**

• M421: Set a single Mesh Bed Leveling Z coordinate
  *
• M421 I J Z
  */

—
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/6399#issuecomment-300679132,
or mute the thread
https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AJKMeYkaMiB5nDr0pA9hZ3a7XOeJeaYmks5r4o5BgaJpZM4NDD5J
.

[d2crafty]

printer used to show up Baby Stepping Z. Now its only Z offset? Is this the new Baby Step Z?

[funaro13]

Friends, I have a ante A8 it and compatible with UBL leveling ??

[benlye]

@funaro13, No, not unless you replace the mainboard. The A8 board has an Armega1284p processor which does not have enough flash capacity for UBL.

[funaro13]

that sad

[fiveangle]

You can run UBL...

...if you disable SDcard, LCD, workspace offsets, various safety features like long extrusion prevention, and a handful of other things 😜

Honestly, looking back on it... I think I was happiest with MBL on my printer since it was simple, never gouged the bed (unlike ABL bilinear) and didnt have to do the tedious calibration before each print either (although it had a very temperature-stable bed, which is somewhat of a requirement).

[funaro13]

OK

[emailcraigs]

Hi, I'm attempting UBL on a Delta Kossel and when I try G29 P1 it only probes the left side of the print bed. I'm guessing that I have neglected to define the probe area correctly?

[Roxy-3D]

Hi, I'm attempting UBL on a Delta Kossel and when I try G29 P1 it only probes the left side of the print bed. I'm guessing that I have neglected to define the probe area correctly?

I think there has been some kind of regression in the last 5 weeks. Oldmcg is out of town right now, but when he is back, I suspect he will figure it out and fix it. But if you know how to use Git, see if you can find the changes in the last 5 weeks to G29 P1. Almost for sure, there is something there causing the trouble. G29 P1 isn't very complicated. So if we can get the various changes (in the last 5 weeks) identified... We should be able to figure it out pretty quickly.